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When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.